This is the trip report of a four-day birding and wildlife holiday in Northern Greece during September 2025 combining wetlands and wilderness. We organized this unique trip for two avid birders from Wellington, New Zealand, that came to Greece to explore its diverse avifauna.
Our journey began with one full day exploring the rich birdlife of the Thessaloniki Wetlands, a haven for waterbirds and migrants. From there, we spent three unforgettable days deep in the Elatia (Kara-dere) Virgin Forest of the Rodopi Mountains, one of Europe’s last untouched forests, home to rare woodpeckers, raptors, and a wealth of wildlife.
Roe Deer (Capreolus capreolus), in Elatia Forest
Day 1 – Thessaloniki Arrival & Free Day
Our trip began with a relaxed day in Thessaloniki. We spent the day walking through the city’s historic streets, enjoying its lively atmosphere, and sampling the city’s famous food scene, which set the perfect tone for the days of birding ahead.
Day 2 – Kalochori Lagoon & Axios–Gallikos National Park
Our first birding day took us to the wetlands west of Thessaloniki. At Kalochori Lagoon and the Axios–Gallikos Delta, we were greeted by an abundance of waterbirds: herons, waders, and a stunning group of Bee-eaters filling the sky with color.
Spur-winged Plover at Kalochori Lagoon
The highlight was a flock of Spur-winged Plovers, a remarkable sight since this species is very rare in Europe and only breeds in small numbers in Greece. We also encountered Dalmatian Pelican and Pygmy Cormorant, two iconic wetland species of the region.
Day 3 – Paggaio Mountain & Arrival in Sidironero
We left Thessaloniki behind and drove north toward the Rodopi Mountains. On the way, we stopped at the rocky slopes of Paggaio Mountain, where luck was on our side: an impressive Golden Eagle soared overhead, giving us superb views.
Golden Eagle is the kind of Mt Paggaio
Western slopes of Mt Paggaio
Nestor River Valley
Mt Falakro as admired from our lodge terrace
at Sidironero, Drama
By afternoon, we arrived at Sidironero, on the edge of the Virgin Forest. As dusk settled, we enjoyed forest birding and were rewarded with the haunting calls—and a brief view—of a cryptic Tawny Owl.
Day 4 – Exploring the Elatia Virgin Forest
Our first full day inside the Elatia Virgin Forest began with a drive to Stravorema, deep in the heart of the Rodopi. The birding was fantastic, with highlights including Nutcracker, Bullfinch, Honey Buzzard, Black Woodpecker, Willow Tit, Crested Tit, and Common Treecreeper.
Nutcracker in Elatia Forest
Black Woodpecker at Stravorema
On site picknic lunch at Elatia Forest
The sense of wilderness here was striking—ancient conifers, rushing streams, and birdlife rarely encountered elsewhere in Greece.
Day 5 – Targets of the Forest: Hazel Grouse & Capercaillie
This was the most anticipated day of the trip, dedicated to finding the forest’s two iconic species. At dawn, we encountered the elusive Hazel Grouse—a species extremely rare in Greece. We watched it briefly as it skulked in the undergrowth before melting back into the forest, its secretive behavior a real thrill.
Later, in an unforgettable moment, we found two female Capercaillies feeding in the same poplar tree. Seeing these majestic forest birds, symbols of Europe’s wild woodlands, was a true highlight of the trip.
Other excellent sightings included Long-legged Buzzard, Syrian Woodpecker, Great Spotted Woodpecker, and more views of Nutcracker.
Entering Elatia Forest
